Engine Cooling Fan and Torquatrol Unit Replacement

1990 XJ-S Coupe (US Spec, 5.3L V12)

 

Tools/Parts:

½” Open End Wrench

¾” Open End Wrench

½” Socket Wrench

9/16” Open End Wrench

Magnet Wand

Fan (Part Number EAC 3265)

Torquatrol Unit (Part Number EAC 4751)

 

The main engine cooling fan on both my cars is yellow plastic.  There are a number of horror stories on the Jag-Lovers forum and in “Experience in a Book” about how the fan can develop cracks and eventually “blow up”, possibly causing damage to, among other things, the bonnet.  This belt-driven fan is connected to its pulley via a clutch, or as Jaguar calls it, a “Torquatrol Unit”.  As detailed in the “Book”, this unit provides differing amounts of slippage for the fan depending on the temperature (higher temperature, less slippage).   With the car off and cold, spin the fan by hand – it should go about a half of a turn.  If the fan doesn’t move, the unit is frozen, and if it spins and spins, its no good - even so, it is suggested that this is not a very reliable test and the unit should be replace every 60,000 miles or so.

 

Loosening the Fan/Torquatrol Unit from the Idle Housing Pulley

(Viewed from Right Side)

 

There are lots of reasons to consider replacing the fan/torquatrol unit and the existing auxiliary electric fan with a dual electric fan setup – more air flow for better cooling, increased horsepower available to the wheels (since the main fan is belt-driven), etc.  They are available from a number sources including v12s.com (about $388), but I decided save time and money and keep the setup that has done its job for about 95,000 miles – maybe I’ll go electric with my other Coupe…

 

The XJ-S Service Manual describes the replacement of the fan/torquatrol unit rather well (Volume 2, Section 26.25.21).  First, loosen the four nuts holding the fan/torquatrol unit to the idle housing pulley using a ½” open end wrench (see photo).  Loosen them all about as far as they will go, then slide the fan/torquatrol unit forward a little and you’ll be able to remove them all the way.  I use a magnet wand to make sure I don’t drop the nuts/washers as I take them all the way off.

 

Just set the fan down in the shroud for now (being careful not to mess up any of the radiator fins), you cannot get the fan out without getting the pulley out of the way…  First, remove the Jockey Pulley (also known as the Fan Idler Pulley) “Carrier” Securing Bolt (see photo below) using a ¾” wrench.  Loosen the Adjusting Link Bolt nut using a 9/16” wrench.  Then loosen the nuts on both sides of the trunnion block using a 9/16” wrench – taking the one on the open end all the way off.  Remove the Fan Belt, then the Jockey Pulley, Carrier, and its adjusting link bolt can be taken out of the way.

 

Next, remove the two bolts/washers and two nuts/washers holding the Fan Pulley housing to the engine using a ½” wrench.  I used a socket for the one nut hidden underneath.  Next, remove the coolant hose going from the Radiator Banjo Bolt to the Crossover Filler Pipe (there should be only a little coolant that drips out), then lift out the Fan Pulley housing and finally the Fan…

 

Jockey Pulley Removal                              Fan Pulley Housing Removal

 

  

 

Fan/Fan Pulley/Fan Pulley Housing Removed

 

 

With the old fan out of the way, it was time to clean-up, de-rust, and repaint the exposed part of the shroud.  This is an excellent time to replace the Belts

 

I got a new fan for $79.60 and torquatrol unit for $82.11 from Motorcarsltd.com (their part numbers IN102140 and IN105387 respectively).  The new fan is black and has longer, narrower blades.  Assembly is the reversal of removal – use the bolts holding the old fan to the old clutch for the new fan/clutch.  Be patient and use the magnet wand when mounting the fan/clutch to the pulley.  Next project…

 

New Fan Installed