Fuel Injector Hoses, Seals, and Pintle Caps

1990 XJ-S and 1991 XJ-S Classic Collection Coupes (US Spec, 5.3L V12)

 

Tools/Parts:

Rags

Cutters/Knifes/Tweezers

12 Sets - Fuel Injector Seals (Upper and Lower)

5/16” Fuel Hose (High Pressure) – about 3 feet

11/16” Open End Wrench

7/16” Socket with Universal (¼” Drive)

Wire/Buffing Wheel

High Heat Clear Paint

Pliers

 

How old are your Fuel Injector Hoses and Seals?  Mine were original on both cars – it’s easy to tell, there are hoses with a metal band wrapped around them going to the 1B Injector, the A side Fuel Regulator to the Fuel Rail, and the B side Fuel Regulator to the Fuel Cooler with a date stamped on them.  To change the hoses/seals, you’ll need to remove the Fuel Rail – the square metal pipe in the shape of a large “U” on top of the Vee.  Its not that tough, the most time consuming part of this project is getting the old hoses off the rail and injectors.  You can see a few pictures of the Fuel Rail pre and post work on my Engine Pictures page…

 

 

Please wait, there are a lot of photos on this page...

 

 

Fuel Injector Clamps

(Viewed from Overhead, Front of Car to Left)

 

Fuel Injector Clamps Location

 

 

Fuel Rail Removed

(Viewed from Right Side)

 

 

Fuel Rail/Injectors Out of Engine

 

 

The Fuel Rail had some black plastic-like pieces around it at various locations – I see no need for them, so I removed them and put them away.  Now getting those old hoses off…  Cut all the remaining injector hoses in the middle (separating the Injectors from the Rail) and carefully, using whatever combination of knifes Fuel Rail on the benchyou feel most comfortable with, start cutting away trying your best not to nick the metal “barbs” on the rail or injectors.  Trying to cut the hose below the “dish” washers (also known as “sleeves”) are what make this most difficult – take your time because it will take time.  There has been much discussion on the Jag-Lovers XJ-S Forum about whether or not the washers are really needed – the consensus seems to be no, but I wanted to keep them…

 

The original hoses for Injectors 1A and 1B are about 4” long, and for 2A/B-6A/B, just over 2” long.  You can get a little more clearance between the Fuel Rail and the bonnet it you make them 3¾” long for the front two and 1¾” long for the other ten.  I bought 3 feet of 5/16” high-pressure fuel injector hose from my local Auto Parts store for about $15.00.

 

I spent some time at the wire/buffing wheel to clean the Fuel Rail and dish washers then sprayed them with a high heat clear paint.  I cut one piece of hose 1¾” long and used it as a template for 9 more.  Then I cut two at 3¾” long for the 1A and 1B injectors.  Put the dish washers back in place (cup down/forward) on the Fuel Rail, and then push the hoses on as far as they will go.  Set the rail/hoses on a flat surface right side up and make sure none of the hoses is significantly longer than any of the others (trim long ones if necessary).

 

Fuel Rail Cleaned Up with New Hoses

 

 

Now to the Fuel Injectors – First, remove the old seals – most of the small seals at the bottom of the injector were left in the Air Intake Manifold – make sure you get them out (using tweezers).  Toss the old seals, but keep the metal “collar” (if you need new collars, they’re available from Motorcarsltd.com – their part number IN105131).  Next, cut the hose off the injectors the same way as getting them off the rail.  The injectors were painted black and had a small amount of rust on them.  They shine up to a chrome-like appearance on the wire wheel.  I cleaned the dish washers, collars, clampdowns, and clampdown nuts/washers as well and sprayed them all with a high heat clear paint…

 

Fuel Injectors – From “Out of Engine” to “Ready for Replacement”

 

   

 

 

       Fuel Injector Seal Kit                                                                                                                          Pintle Caps

 

I got the Fuel Injector Seals from my local auto parts store – Standard SK3 (SKU 0 91769 06565 5 – “O-Ring Kit, Injector”) for $4.25 - four large/small sets per box (three boxes needed).  I’ve read that some Seal kits come with Pintle Caps, but these didn’t.  The Pintle Cap is the tan colored tip on the end (bottom) of the injector.  They apparently are there for heat protection (you can see the Pintle Cap removed in the second-from right picture above), and they come off with a good twist using a pair of pliers or vice grips.  One of mine was cracked, so I needed to get a new one, well 12 new ones while I was there…  I inquired on the Jag-Lovers forum for a source of the caps and got an email from Doug Garriott “The Injector Wizard” at LTS out of Indianapolis.  I called him at 888-809-FUEL.  Based on a cross reference I had seen, the injectors themselves are Bosch “P-Jetronic 5.3L No Hose” part number 0 280 150 161.  Doug had the caps for about $1.20 each.  Unlike the originals, they are black and the baggie was marked “All pintle caps must be heated before installing” – I used a lighter, not letting the flame touch them.  They require a good push to put them on.

 

Once all the injectors were done, I installed them on the hoses – don’t forget to put the Clamp on before your push the injectors onto the hoses, they will not fit over the injector.  Also, make sure the injectors are in the correct direction – the connector on 1,2, 3, and 6 goes “forward” while 4 and 5 face “rearward”.

 

The Cruise Control Harness on the right side of the engine was outside of the Fuel Rail before this project.  After the project, I put the harness inside of the Rail, down by the Injectors.

 

While you have the Fuel Rail off, you may want to consider addressing the Air Rail, the Air Rail Tee, Check Valve, and Tee-to-Air Rail Hoses, as well as cleaning up the Cruise Control Bellows, and replacing the Spark Plugs, Wires, Rotor, Cap, and Distributor Cap.